CINDA'S BLUE JERSEY GIANT CHICKENS
The
most common color in Jersey Giant Chickens is Black. Other colors
include Blue, Blue-Splashed and White. These are the largest of the
giant breeds of chickens, are very gentle, easy to handle, and fun to raise.
Please
note that ALL PHOTOS in this website are photos that were taken on our
premises of our own individual birds at CBF Super Quail, by use
personally and may NOT be used without permission. Thank you!! : )
Top row, from
left to right: Day-old chicks, a blue on the left, splash in the
middle and the black chick is on the right (you can determine color
when the chick hatches,
but not the gender by color - they are not "sexlink" chickens); Next is
a pair of Blacks, the rooster being my favorite, Bubba and the hen now
resides in a museum in Dallas, Texas; on the right is a lovely Splash
hen. On the bottom row is a photo of me with my main Blue breeder roo,
Mr. Beefy. In the middle is another photo of Mr. Beefy, my model boy!
His female counterpart in the chicken modeling is Henrietta, who was 6
months old in that photo!
An interesting note, the word Black the name "Black Jersey Giant" does
not refer to color, it is in reference to the Black brothers who
developed the breed.
S T A T I S T I C S
Scientific classification: Gallus domesticus (all domestic chickens are the same classification)
Incubation
period: 21 days, sometimes as late as 22 or 23 (I always leave
developed eggs in the hatching tray for about three days after the
first chick hatched and am often rewarded for my efforts! The late
hatchers are NOT unthrifty, sickly chicks.)
Humidity for incubator: 50 - 60%
Move to hatcher/stop turning: 18 days
Matures at: Hens may lay as early as 6 months, but chickens are not completely filled out until 12-24 months.
Benefits
of raising: Great for production of very large, brown eggs; meat
production; careful breeding to keep this rare breed in existence and
improve upon its quality.
Size/Weight: About 9-11 lbs for
mature hens, and 11-15 for mature roosters. I've seen recent
claims of 18-20+ lbs, but I think someone is telling tall tales.
These are a slow-growing variety and roosters are best if butchered
later, around 12 months.
Sexing:
As with any other chicken, the roosters will develop more pronounced
comb, waddles, tailfeathers and spurs and will be bigger than the hens. They are not
a sex-link variety; you cannot determine the gender of the bird by its
color when hatched.
Space/pen requirements: At maturity these
chickens need approximately 4x8’ of space per bird. Nest boxes
should be 18x18” to accommodate larger hens, and roosts should be
no more than 24” off of the ground. Heavy breeds may easily
develop leg problems and jumping high distances may encourage such
problems to arise. As for chicks, cedar shavings are poisonous to birds
and should never be used. Newspapers, especially on young chicks, can
cause leg and foot problems. For secure footing for young chicks, I
recommend rubbery shelf-liner. I remove the liner at three days and
birds easily adapt to 1/2x1/2” wire flooring. I have NEVER had a
Jersey Giant chick with club foot or sprawled legs when using the
shelf-liner and wire flooring. Heavy breeds will be more subject to
these type problems, and that can also be indicative of improper
humidity or other incubation problems.
Breeding Ratio: One or
two roosters to five-six hens is sufficient. I would recommend
“exchanging” two roosters if you wish to use to different
roos, every week or so, verses keeping both boys with the ladies all
the time as roosters, even raised together, tend to fight over ladies
and typically do not cohabitate well after sexual maturity, unless they
were raised together. I have, however, seen exceptions to this rule if
the birds have plenty of room, and enough room around feed and water
stations.
Special
Needs: Being larger, Jersey Giants drink more than smaller chickens;
the height of waterers and feeders should be approximately level with
the birds’ back. As this is a rare breed, I do not free-range
mine where harm may come to them, they have a very secure pen with top
netting to prevent owls or hawks from having buffet chicken. As far as
chicks go, I use brooders with a little more head room than with
smaller chickens or poultry as the Jersey Giants grow so very fast.
When they are fledged and the weather is nice, they go in an
intermediate outdoor pen with a solid roof and wire bottom and after a
few weeks there, into “big chicken” pens outside with
netting over the top. This is especially important with younger birds!
Also, having netting or chicken wire over 2x4” welded fencing
(best to place that on the inside of the cages) can prevent attacks
from owls, keep birds from reaching their heads out to graze, or cats
or other animals from pawing young birds out. I do not allow any of my
chickens to set on eggs as I do not like broody hens; I strictly use my
incubator and care for the chicks myself. Jersey Giants are not often
broody, but I recently have had two ladies who have developed a taste
for broodiness. I’ve actually seen both of them in one nest box
and they won't hesitate to let you know their eggs are off limits! (I
gather the eggs anyway, I'm the boss - not the chickens.)
For more information on Jersey Giants, feel free to visit my other website at:
www.cindasbluejerseygiants.com
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